Craftsman 1958 drill press

Craigslist find - 1958 model, with 1/2hp motor. HEAVY cast iron, with Jacobs chuck that is still tight.













Since I plan on using it (was keeping my eyes open for this exact style), and the paint has a lot of discoloration and wear, thought I'd repaint it. I found a near exact match.

Everything was disassembled, removed from the cast iron part. Some was hand polished, some tumbled for a few days. The cast iron was cleaned, sanded so the new paint would bite, and wiped with Naptha a million times. The machined surfaces were cleaned with lacquer thinner.

Here's the first coat of new paint going on:



Here are a couple of pictures after reassembly, minus the motor:





The table part and base will be repainted this spring.

Dracula flipper rebuild parts

The plunger and coil stops (not shown) were ordered from Marco. The plastic links and springs from Pinball Resource. Lowes had the 1/8" roll pins. The assemblies were very worn:



Pawls were cleaned and polished. Rebuilt assemblies:

Dracula cabinet repaint

Lower cabinet before:



Nasty and stained inside:



Everything including ground braid and side rails was removed, leaving only the wood cabinet. I sanded it with 80 grit inside and out. Scratches were filled, resanded with finer sandpaper..primer..sand..primer, etc...

Mid-way through the process-:



Semi-gloss latex Olympic paint was matched to a piece of backbox trim. Mix was 80% paint, 15% water, 5% Floetrol. 4 or 5 very thin coats, sprayed from a cheap HVLP gun, inside and out. No runs at all.

Full paint towards top of cabinet/inside. Painted inside front, mostly to cover staining. Feathered it out towards bottom of cabinet, as factory did:



At this stage, I'm tracing the art back onto the frisket film, with the result being stencils stuck to the cabinet:



Yellow layer already applied, black stencils applied, spraying black at this point:



Black layer finished, stencils pulled away. Not perfect, but close enough. I did a slight amount of touchups with a brush and wet sanded a few runs that I had in the yellow layer:





Speaker board was repainted white. Everything cleaned, hand polished, or tumbled.. It's going to back together:

Dracula backbox

New rectifier PCB, with all new components, large bridge rectifiers, and large heat sinks:



New sheet metal, backbox is being assembled, re-stapled using Porter Cable 22ga upholstery stapler. MPU was bead blasted to remove very minor corrosion. Only 2 sockets seemed affected and were replaced. Still untested..

A few arcade games

Here are a few of the games that are mostly finished and completely working:





Future Spa backglass:

Tempest project complete

Tempest is finally working steadily. Game worked intermittently, but then constantly reset.

Molex headers at interconnect, on both boards, replaced with square pin type. All connector pins replaced with Trifurcon type. Bad solder joint seemed to be the issue, but connector replacement is cheap insurance.





I wanted to add a fan, without adding any holes. Although not the best placement, this 12v fan is attached to the monitor frame with zip ties. Very light and so quiet you can't hear it.



Fan is plugged in to the 12v and ground test points on the ARII. A supplemental ground wire connects the ARII to the Main PCB.

Dracula backbox - yellow layer, then black

Stencil for yellow layer applied-



Came out well-



At this point, black stenciled areas are complete. Backbox surround pieces were remade out of 3/4" MDF. Must note that original pieces were closer to 5/8". They were attached to box, using carpenters glue, with pin nails to hold in place. 16ga finish nails were used in the end joints.



Done. Ready to install new sheet metal piece inside.